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Coming home today! Just wanted to write a fairly short post, don’t have much time for anything longer. I spent the last week in the Sichuan Province traveling Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong—two absolutely gorgeous places. I’ll post about it once I’m settled back at home. Or maybe if the JFK airport has free wifi, I’ll post during my 6 hour layover there -__-

I’m actually really excited to be coming back to the states. The two lifestyles are entirely different. Not really prepared for the reverse culture shock. Excited to see my family and friends. And eat non-oily foods. And breathe not-smoggy air. But I’m definitely going to miss my family I’ve met here, the food and the daily funnies and amusements China has provided me with. Oh, and also going to miss the ubiquitous Asian babies.

华山

Another great weekend in Xi’an (now two weekends ago). But the saga begins in Beijing, so let it begin.

I do admit that I mismanaged my time and waited until just three days prior to departure to buy my ticket so I can’t complain too much, but just hear me out. At the ticket office, while the guy was telling me there weren’t any sleepers left and I had no choice but to buy a hard seat, he slyly slipped a “慢的车” (slow train) somewhere in there. The ride from Beijing to Xi’an is usually 12 hours, but this trip was a whopping EIGHTEEN. I was sure that I would be the only foreigner in the carriage, and that I could just use my veil of dark hair to hide my otherwise not-so-Chinese facial features as to not attract attention and whatnot, but to my surprise and delight I actually ended up sitting across from a Czech couple. They were nice and entertaining to talk to, and shared some yummy granola with me (key to my heart? Granola). I am so thankful I have the ability to sleep quite literally anywhere regardless of surroundings (I suppose you could consider it some sort of superpower) it wasn’t long before I dozed off. I managed to sleep off the eighteen hours in two hour increments. The guy next to my was very…snuggly. Actually,stnk the whole hard seat passenger carriage was snuggly. The two restrooms in the carriage were formidable. The squat toilets quickly clogged and piled up with all sorts of shit (pun entirely intended). Stank beyond imagination. As for the rest of the carriage, it smelled like a mix of cigarette smoke and curtains. A lot of people actually took the curtains down and used them as blankets, so maybe the curtains just smelled of passengers, in which case I should say the carriage smelled like cigarette smoke and people.

Whatever, it wasn’t all that bad. The rest of my trip made the ride worth it. Arrived in Xi’an, got picked up by my two cousins (Kao Chen and Shen Chao), we returned to my gugu’s apartment, ate lunch, I showered, then we departed for Hua Shan. We (Kao Kao, Chao Chao and myself) drove about 2.5 hours to Hua Shan.

I had a hard time taking in Hua Shan. It just looks so incredibly beautiful it’s hard to believe it’s real. It’s also insanely steep. The hike up was a lot of fun, trekking up 90 and 70 degree stairways, sweating profusely…it was all really fun (no sarcasm here).

We started our ascent at about 3:00 pm. It was completely dark by 8:45, and we ducked into a small eatery/lodging place around 9:30 since it lightning started up pretty ferociously and we knew a storm was definitely coming. Hiking in China is a little strange. When I hike, I like roughing it. If I didn’t bring enough food, enough water, then too bad I’ll fend for myself. In China, along Hua Shan, at least, there are little food stalls and rest stops of sorts along the path up.

Also, I can’t stand seeing some of these Chinese women who think they can hike in little heels or skirts or dresses. I asked Kao Kao why they’re like that and his reasoning is that Chinese women like to look beautiful, which made me even more -__-.

Anyway, a lot of other hikers also took shelter in this little lodge until the storm ended, which coincidentally enough was right before 1 AM, when the owners closed up shop and booted everyone who wasn’t renting a bed for 100 RMB out. We continued our trek to the East Peak (?). On our way up, I saw this enormous yellow orb. I thought it was some sort of light globe or something (I don’t know, I was tired). I felt stupid for asking after Kao Kao told me it was the moon. The moon! I’ve never seen it so beautiful. I guess I’ve grown accustomed to Beijing lack of night sky, or any sky. When we finally reached the peak, we settled down, snuggled up and waited for the sunrise. We literally just fell asleep on a giant rock, which was surprisingly comfortable compared to the benches and chairs we were trying to sleep on a few hours earlier. When I fell asleep there were maybe 10 others on this giant rock. When I awoke, there were about seventy. I just thought, “wow, only in China would you find so many people on top of a freaking mountain.”

The few hours I did get to sleep were chilly, but bearable. The sky was bright around 4:30 AM, but the sun didn’t emerge from the mountains until about 5:15. At the first sight of it, everyone sprung up and rushed to the edge of the mountain peak, elbowing their way to a good spot. It was like the Fourth of July on the National Mall—people were going crazy. The sunrise was stunning though. Well worth the climb and the crowd.

Once the sun found its place, we continued onward to hike the other peaks, South Peak being the highest at 2,314 meters. Still pretty crowded, but still pretty beautiful. Kao kao and I decided to go on this one climb along the side of one of the peaks. I don’t think I’ve ever been closer to the top of the world. Each donning a chest harness and a couple caribbeaners for safety, we shimmied our down a makeshift ladder made of iron rods and across a three-plank-wide wooden ledge. It was exhilarating.

The descent was quite challenging, too. By the end of the trail we in a full fledged sprint. The steep grade took away any self control we had over our legs and how fast they were moving underneath us. Good hike.

Oh, and I’ve got an interesting occurrence during this trip to share. Gufu (my father’s sister’s husband. Family relationships in Chinese are really complex) and I were roaming Muslim Street the night back from Hua Shan looking for flaky peanut cake when I bumped into my friend Brian from UF! Yes, coincidentally bumped into my friend on a street on the other side of the world. Granted I did know he was also in studying in China (in Chengdu), and I did know he was coming to Xi’an that weekend…but still! This world we’ve got here is too small, no? Good gracious.

Thankfully, Gufu managed to nab me a hard sleeper. I was top berth and met a great family sharing the room with me. The girl in the berth across from me was 20 years old, attends Beijing Sports University and is studying English Literature. Her name’s Emily and we had some pretty great conversations. It was fun to talk to a Chinese English Lit major. We talked about our favorite authors, I introduced her to Hemingway’s misogynistic tendencies and treatment of women, we exchanged cultural perceptions on each other’s respective culture, talked of stereotypes, and she practiced Chinese with me, and I English with her. Her English is so great! I brought along an April issue of The New Yorker that I ended up giving to her. Unfortunately it was missing the nice cover that’s currently tacked up in my room here. She gave me a pen in exchange. Emily was traveling with her mother and her grandmother, I believe. The train arrived a little late and I ended up missing two hours of class, but they were really kind in helping me get to the subway station. Good people.

Here’s a picture they snapped and emailed to me:

Also, I’m not sure what’s been wrong with Tumblr in China recently, but there has definitely been some trouble. Are they thinking of blocking it? I’m not sure. At this point, I just finished writing my final paper on media censorship in China, so that’s all that’s on my mind. Of course I think they’re trying to block it! Anyway, a long-winded apology for the delay in posting.

The Forbidden City: Imperial Garden

The Forbidden City: Imperial Garden

Th Forbidden City

Th Forbidden City

Trying out Nathalie’s most recent purchase. Looking into getting one myself. Thoughts?

Trying out Nathalie’s most recent purchase. Looking into getting one myself. Thoughts?

前门

前门

SAY IT

Don’t worry

Bié dānxīn

别担心

humanity

The theme for this past weekend was faith in humanity, and the good workings of life in general.

Sounds like I had a good weekend, right? Meh.

I’ll start off on the upside of things. Saturday I had planned to go up north of Beijing via bus to see the sunflower sea. It’s on my bucket list to see a sunflower sea — I can’t even fathom how awe-inspiring it would be. At the last minute, Nathalie decided to join me, which I was happy for since the adventures ahead are definitely better enjoyed with company. Although Beijing’s public transit network is expansive, it sure isn’t easy to research or plan by. I got all the transportation info about the sunflower fields from forums online and such. Bus 919 to the Yanqing station, switch to 925 branch 2 and get off at Hongshiwan. Finding 919 wasn’t a problem, but confirming that it was the right one was where our confusion began. The workers at the bus station downtown suggested bus 883 when I asked them about Yanqing and the sunflowers. I found it strange that I hadn’t read anything about 883 in any of the forums, but Nathalie and I checked it out anyway. For these buses that depart every  20 minutes, 883 looked to be at least an hour and a half’s wait. Mouths agape, gawking at the line to infinity, we caught a glimpse of a 919 pull up nearby. Its line consisted of a few backpackers and some other locals, so we figured we’d just take that bus, see where it goes and try to figure things out from there. This 919’s line initially seemed benign, but as soon as those doors folded open a swarm of people flung themselves inside, pushing and shoving and grunting. The Chinese are merciless when it comes to public transit. 

A little more than an hour’s ride brought us to Yanqing, our transfer stop. We waited there for a solid two hours before the unmarked 925 branch 2 arrived. Seriously, this bus didn’t have any marquees or plaques indicating its number or terminal stops and there was no route map inside, either. Most inconvenient indeed.

Boarding 925 was a story in itself. This tussle made boarding 919 seem effortless, even enjoyable. Nathalie managed to propel her way through (the locals always seem to be either intimidated by or respectful of her blonde hair, height, and generally more Western appearance — that’s what we suspect anyway), but I got a little overtaken by the crowd. Everyone was yelling “别挤了!” (Bié jǐ le, don’t shove) and squishing my arm against the door and gliding against each other’s sweat-veiled skin. There actually was a point when I started to worry I wouldn’t make it on the bus. That’s when I activated survival mode, used my pointy elbows (thanks mom) as weapons, and bolted my feet to the ground, enabling a rather uncomfortable, but successful board nevertheless. Needless to say, no seats were available and the people who were lucky enough to have squeezed onto the bus stood in the aisle. 

The mountains and villages were beautiful, a much appreciated change of scenery. Since there was no route map in the bus, I just asked a couple people if they’d heard of Hongshiwan. They hadn’t. We caught a few glimpses of the 925 route as we stopped at some of the stops along the way, but alas still no sight of Hongshiwan. Everything out here was absolutely stunning, so we just figured we’d get off at whichever stop we felt like, judging on the surrounding scenery and whatnot (to my family reading this: you guys know I have good judgement, this all was safe—no worries). We got off at stop in a small town nestled in some small mountains, rocky hills and lush greenery.

We strolled around for a short bit until we saw another, entirely different stop for 925 branch 2 going in the opposite direction from the one we were just on…confusing. An older couple (early 70s?) were waiting there, so I asked them about the sunflower fields. They said the flowers probably still weren’t in bloom and they were even confused as to why I’d travel all they way out here “just to look at flowers.” We continued to talk more and to my surprise, the man, I’ll just call him yeye (grandpa), spoke a bit of English! He has been teaching himself via TV and radio. I was so impressed, he was quite good. The couple suggested we go check out this park that they came into the area to visit. So, we waited around for this other 925, bought some peanuts in case we ended up getting stranded somewhere, boarded the bus and journeyed onward. I thought I heard yeye say that was the only bus for the day, but that this park’s surrounding village had places to stay for cheap. I was honestly [mentally] prepared to spend the night out in some field, which would have been really fun, but we later found out the there was actually one last Yanqing-bound bus at 6:00 PM so we just took that one back.

Had we not bumped into the elder couple, I really would have no idea how the rest of the day would’ve unfolded. It was so nice of them to help us. I kind of felt like they were our adopted parents for the day. Oh, they were so adorable. I still don’t know the name of the geological park we ended up exploring, but it was stunning! 

And we encountered a sweet cave on our ascent.

Climbing a mountain you never expected to even see in the first place makes for a pretty good Saturday, I’d say. 

We then caught the last bus back into Yanqing at 6:00, but found out from these other people waiting for the bus that the Yanqing-Beijing bus stops running at 3:30 PM and that we’d have to take the train. No problem, except we didn’t know how to get to the Yanqing station.

When you get off of any bus anywhere in China, there’s usually taxi drivers who’ll try to convince you to hire them and I’ve read to not trust them or pay attention to them, as these approaching type aren’t from legitimate taxi services. As soon as we got off the bus in Yanqing, this happened, as expected. One of the drivers started talking to us, or rather “at” us, about the train station, etc. So I lent him half an ear as he offered to drive us to the station for ¥10, less than $2. Nathalie and I decided this guy seemed fairly trustworthy and the situation seemed stable, so we hopped in the back seat, exchanged a few cautious/wtf-are-we-doing-right-now? looks and made our way to the railway station (again, family reading this: I have solid judgement). The guys was nice and we had fun letting him guess our nationality. He guessed European, Russian, and “Reika” which was actually him trying to say “America,” but we initially understood it as “Africa.” I asked him a few questions along the way to let him know that I was wary of this situation, but he said he honestly just wants to help us, seeing that we’re foreigners and we had apparently stepped off the bus with “WORRIED” written all over our faces. He was a good guy. We boarded the train just in time, and for only ¥5, too! So, that was Saturday and it totally shone a big ol’ optimistic light on the innate goodness of humanity, yadda, yadda. 

And then there was Sunday. My camera got stolen on Sunday. Nathalie and I were walking to the antique market when I saw the cutest, chunkiest little Chinese baby. So, naturally, I whipped out my camera and snuck a golden photo. I wanted to be ready just in case I saw another cute baby or a matching couple or any of the other numerous daily happenings of China life that I like taking pictures of, so I just slipped my camera in my backpack’s side pocket, the water bottle pocket. Ten minutes later I see a REALLY chubby baby and go to grab my camera only to find it missing. And I don’t need to drawl this out any longer, but I basically went into cardiac arrest which ignited a mental hatred of humanity spree in my tiny little brain that already felt like it was going to explode. Yes, I was mad about the actual camera being gone, but even more so the pictures on it! I hadn’t gotten a chance to upload them for a while because of some computer issues and now they’re gone! Luckily my friend Barbara grabbed the Mongolia pics off my memory card earlier that week, so all that I’m really missing are the geological park photos and some other random, but still special ones. And that photo I so sneakily snapped of the baby just moments before the theft. 

So, a big thank you to Nathalie—all the photos in this post are hers. I’m getting a dSLR later this week or early next, but I won’t have it for this weekend’s adventure of hiking Hua Shan. 

Also, a note about Mongolia: it was unbelievably awesome and I’ll post about it once I get my pics from Barbara and my life simmers down a bit, which should be next week.

A summer in Beijing: studying abroad, exploring and experiencing.

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